Hello, darlings!
On this next installment of A Lady's Charm, we discuss cosmetics, the fashionable woman's paint set.
These, just like perfume, can evoke a mood or feeling, with just a flick of a brush or pencil!
It is imperative to choose a look that flatters one's features. And the signature beauty of the 1940s and 50s - winged dark liner, neutral shadow, and a red lip - provides just that distinction!
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(The always glamorous Rita Hayworth - circa 1940s)
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Skincare
Of chief importance, and any good makeup artist will tell you this, is to take care of your skin. Your eyes, lips, and cheeks could be on point, but it's the canvas on which those elements are placed that makes the look.
Washing with a gentle cleanser, toning, and moisturizing is a good regimen to keep. Only exfoliate 1-2 times a week, sticking closer to one time if your skin is sensitive (like mine).
As I mentioned in a previous comment on a post, I swear by Pond's Cold Cream. If that doesn't work for you, find something that does. Use whatever makes your skin feel healthy and rejuvenated.
Another useful tip - and we've all been guilty of it a time or two - but never sleep in makeup! The oils and dirt from the day are left clinging and it wreaks havoc on the complexion! And always, always keep your makeup brushes clean.
When you hit a time when your face is feeling less than fancy, drinking water or green tea will help flush out impurities.
Foundation and Concealer
As with all makeup and preparation for it, start with a good base. Priming the skin is just as important as taking care of it. For a vintage look, a matte, flawless complexion is ideal. Smashbox Cosmetics' Photo Finish is a good recommendation to achieve this, but, as always, use what you like and are comfortable with.
When applying foundation, do so in as much natural light as possible, to avoid over-application. And blend well! Especially at your hairline, under your jaw, and near your ears. Moving your foundation brush in a sweeping circular pattern helps this.
Concealer is lightly applied to disguise any lumps, bumps, or discolorations, and should be slightly lighter than or match your skin tone. Use a concealer brush or your finger to apply.
Set both with a translucent or finishing powder.
Contouring, Highlighting, and Blush
Correct color and application is vital when applying your contour powder. It is applied below the apple of the cheek, either side of the nose, on either temple, and in the dip of your chin. Choose a shade that's about two times darker than your natural skin tone, and use an angled brush that's slightly fluffy to apply, holding it near the edge of the handle. The closer you hold the brush to the ferrule, the harsher your line and shading will be. If you're going for a more 1980s look, that works, but not for anything mid-century.
Be sure to tap any extra powder off the brush before applying! The same goes for eyeshadow which will be covered later.
Highlighter is applied to the middle of the forehead, bridge of the nose, top of the cheekbones, and at the top of the Cupid's bow, all in light increments. You can buy a product specifically made for highlighting, like Benefit's High-Beam, or you can use a matte white or pearly toned eyeshadow to achieve the same effect. Just be careful not to use one that's too shimmery or glittery, as it will make the face appear shiny.
Blush ties the contouring and highlighting together seamlessly. Rosy or peach tones were popular in the 1940s and 50s. Both are equally flattering. This is applied by lightly pressing the powder to the apple of the cheek, and blending backwards toward the ear with a large, fluffy brush.
Always apply your contouring shade and blush in small increments as well. It is easier to add than take away. If you do overdo it a bit, sweep on a bit of the powder you use to set your skin to lighten to your desired effect.
Eyebrows
Your eyebrows should be well groomed and filled in using an eyeshadow, brow kit or pencil. Use a shade that matches your hair color, or if your hair is dyed, blend appropriate colors so everything matches.
Using a small brow brush or the little brush that most eyebrow pencils and kits have, brush your eyebrow hairs up and outwards for a smooth line, and keep your pencil sharp for truest color and definition of the arch and end point. Use small strokes to simulate the shape of hairs.
To groom, gently tweeze or wax stray hairs as needed, or seek an esthetician's help if you wish.
Eyeshadow, Liner, and Mascara
Because the lips are going to be so bold, neutral shades on the eyes are needed so as not to compete.
Before you apply any color, prepare your lids for it using a primer. I prefer Too Faced Shadow Insurance, but you can use any brand that you like.
For your main color, use a shade that is in the same color family as your skin tone, but not an exact match. For a true mid-century look, this shade, and the others you'll use, are kept matte.
Once your base shade is applied, take a medium to saddle brown color, and starting at the outer third of the lid, blend inwards and in the crease to define your eye shape. As in previous steps, blend well for a softened look.
Sweep a pearl or cream shadow on your brow bone to highlight, and clean up any fallout from your shadows with a clean brush.
Now comes the tricky part. Eyeliner.
Using a black liquid liner with its applicator or gel liner with a tiny brush, and using slow strokes, follow the shape of your eye, building the line thicker as you reach the outer edge.
There are many tricks for keeping your hand steady as you do this - holding your elbow on the table and looking into a hand mirror is a common one. Again, find whatever works for you and stick with it.
For the wing, carefully draw a line from the corner of your eye that stops just before the end of your eyebrow, and mirror that line on the top lash line, connecting the two in a point, and fill in.
If you have difficulty making the point, I recently found a YouTube tutorial video by Cherry Dollface to be of help. She uses a piece of Scotch tape placed where the wing is supposed to go to help keep lines sharp.
Going slowly ensures a smoother line and less likelihood for mistakes. Also, be sure the line doesn't go too thickly, or curl up at the end. You want your line and wings to be straight on (per the shape of your eye) from all angles.
Once the liner dries completely, curl your upper lashes and coat them and the lower ones with mascara. 1-2 coats is usually sufficient. Try to make your lashes fan out at the ends when you curl them, as that hint of flirtation was also popular in mid-century makeup. If you can't achieve that naturally, a plume of thin false lashes applied to the outer corner of your upper lash line will do the trick (Lucille Ball did this quite often to add drama to her own eye look!)
Lips
Last, but not least!
Applying red lipstick is considered an art by many, as you can change your lip shape to your heart's content with the combination of lipliner and a brush.
Make sure your lips are moisturized but not wet, because the liner will not hold. Using a sharp red lip liner, either matching your lipstick shade or slightly darker or lighter, outline and fill in your lips. If you wish, you can go slightly outside your natural lip line to make them appear fuller.
Next, apply a light coat of translucent powder all over your mouth using your finger or a brush. This will ensure your color lasts all day.
Open your desired shade of lipstick and coat both sides of a lip brush with the pigment, and apply, keeping your lines as clean as possible. And don't forget the inner corners!
Blot with a tissue, and apply a second coat with the lip brush. Once that is complete, take a clean, small eyeshadow brush and sweep your face powder around the perimeter of your mouth to lock in the color and prevent bleeding.
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Additional Resources
Consult these wonderful advice pages on Leah Loverich's blog for this look and variants on it, and other helpful vintage styling tips.
YouTube is another great source for vintage makeup and styling help. Cherry Dollface and LisaFreemontStreet are a wealth of information.
Until next time,
